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As well as his genetic identity and his love of photography, Paul Smith inherited from his father, Harold, a gray suit. “It stands up on its own! It’s bullet-proof!” he said. “Phoebe Philo or Jil Sander would love it, it’s in the same type of fabric they often used to work with.” For this collection Smith reconsidered what he’s handed down to us, his customers, over his 51 years in the business.Appropriately styled by Julian Ganio, who has been plundering and wearing his own father’s Paul Smith archive since the 1990s, the collection was a restrained but precisely composed remix of many menswear tropes that Smith has both witnessed and contributed to over those decades. Some of the highlights from this album of restored snapshots lent freshness through reprocessing included photo-prints and distorted paisley on slim fit workwear and outerwear, striped mohair knits, four button mod-recycling (and recycled) suiting north of crepe soled loafers, a lushly electric orange donkey jacket, and a pale blue three-quarter length shearling in which to be clad would feel simultaneously dad, rad, and bad (i.e. very good).
Isik’s analogue satisfaction came, he said, in cutting and shaping couture-referencing shapes that saw their criss-cross, shoulder-wrapping tailoring silhouette updated and then redeployed as an off-the-shoulder neckline. This was applied with magisterial subversiveness on a black dress/coat in jersey, quilted satin, and a queenly faux-fur in tabby cat tones. Maybe it was that theme, but the silhouette and facade of piratic pointed boots under fitted pants and stretched patterned tops or checked shirting variously recalled Westworld and Black Mirror’s “USS Callister.” Pleather boy looks were sometimes Matrix moody, while a treated-canvas python-print full look (down to the matching boots that were part of the brand’s debut all-vegan footwear range) seemed its own fresh reference.
According to Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby’s notes, the title of this GmbH collection “Welt am Draht (World on a Wire)” was taken from a 1970s Rainer Werner Fassbinder sci-fi TV series that suggested, “Our world exists entirely inside another world, perhaps as a computer simulation.” Once online for a Zoom, that begged the question: Did the designers share that unsettling suspicion? At that exact moment the connection glitched and GmbH vanished.Once contact was restored, Huseby said, “The idea felt very apt at a time when we are always on these Zoom calls and living through our screens. We wanted to go in an opposite direction and strive for real connection and work with real materials…because even as we live in this digital world we crave the analogue.”“You know,” said Huseby, “sometimes you haven’t left your house for two days and then you step out and go, ‘Oh! This is the real world!’ It’s about sanity at the end of the day.” Here GmbH were simulating looks they could envision being worn and reveled in once our return to physical contact is established. The result was really convincing.
Product detail for this product:
Suitable for Women/Men/Girl/Boy, Fashion 3D digital print drawstring hoodies, long sleeve with big pocket front. It’s a good gift for birthday/Christmas and so on, The real color of the item may be slightly different from the pictures shown on website caused by many factors such as brightness of your monitor and light brightness, The print on the item might be slightly different from pictures for different batch productions, There may be 1-2 cm deviation in different sizes, locations, and stretch of fabrics. Size chart is for reference only, there may be a little difference with what you get.
- Material Type: 35% Cotton – 65% Polyester
- Soft material feels great on your skin and very light
- Features pronounced sleeve cuffs, prominent waistband hem and kangaroo pocket fringes
- Taped neck and shoulders for comfort and style
- Print: Dye-sublimation printing, colors won’t fade or peel
- Wash Care: Recommendation Wash it by hand in below 30-degree water, hang to dry in shade, prohibit bleaching, Low Iron if Necessary
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